Enfleurage process – cold or hot method to capture the fragrance 

Master the art of enfleurage (hot and cold method) and capture fresh floral scents so you can enjoy their scent long after they have faded.

Although ‘enfleurage’ may sound snobbish and conjure up images of exclusive French perfumes, it is a simple method that is accessible to everyone.

Although it is a time-consuming process that requires patience, you can easily master this traditional technique at home with fresh flowers and a bottle of coconut oil.

What is the Enfleurage technique and how does it work?

Enfleurage in perfumery is a traditional method of extracting fragrance from flowers using fats or oils. ‘Enfleurage’ comes from the French word ‘fleur’, which means ‘flower’. The process involves placing petals on a layer of fat or oil that is solid at room temperature to capture their essence. This absorption takes time.

Traditionally, in perfumery they used layers of animal fat, purified lard or tallow. However, this method also works with solid vegetable fats at room temperature, such as babassu oil or unscented coconut oil.

As the flowers release their fragrance, the fat or oil becomes saturated with their essence.

I have also made fragrant flower essences with spring water and alcohol to capture the flowers of my garden.

History of the Enfleurage Method in Perfumery

France is known as the perfume capital of the world. One of the oldest techniques was developed in the 18th century in Grasse, a French city

Enfleurage was used on flowers such as jasmine and tuberose, which were sensitive to heat and other harsh extraction methods. Enfleurage allowed these fragile flowers to gently release their scent into fats or oils, preserving their true aroma.

Cold and hot enfleurage, when the fat is completely infused with the scent of the flower, is called enfleurage pomade. This pomade can be used as is or further processed by soaking it in alcohol to infuse the fragrant molecules into the alcohol. After the alcohol is separated from the fat, it evaporates, leaving behind the highly concentrated absolute of the flowers.(1)

Today, modern perfumery has moved to more efficient extraction methods, such as steam distillation and solvent extraction using alcohol or carbon dioxide.

Warm or cold enfleurage? Each method has its advantages.

• Cold Enfleurage: Spread a layer of fat or oil, such as coconut oil, on a flat surface and place fresh petals on it. Over several days, the flowers release their scent into the fat, which is then saturated by replacing the petals with fresh ones. This gentle process is perfect for delicate flowers such as lilac, mimosa, jasmine or orange blossom that can wilt or lose their scent due to the heat.
• Hot Enfleurage: Heat the fat or oil and immerse the petals in it. The heat causes the flowers to quickly release their essential oils, which are absorbed by the fat. This faster method is suitable for sturdier flowers, but may change the scent slightly due to the heat.

Performing cold enfleurage at home is a rewarding way to capture the scent of fresh flowers. Follow these steps to make your own wonderfully scented oils or pomades using the cold enfleurage process.

Fresh petals

I used wild rose petals, so I started collecting them in mid-May and finished them in mid-June. Rose fleurage is quite popular, as is lilac enfleurage. It is important to select fragrant flowers that you can access for several weeks. They should not be treated with pesticides; So organic or farmed are the best.

Solid fat

I used coconut oil, but unscented. You can also use unscented shea or mango butter.

Make sure the fat is odorless to capture the fragrant oil from the flowers.

First step: collect fragrant flowers

Make sure you collect them on a sunny day so they are not wet. Don’t wash them. Carefully remove any insects or dirt. Also remove leaves and stems, leaving only fragrant flowers or petals. You want to keep the pollen because it is the scent carrier. In addition, the flowers must be free of chemicals to create the most natural scent.

Second step: melt solid fat

Melt the solid fat and spread a thin layer on a glass plate or flat surface. Let it set at room temperature, or place it in the refrigerator to speed up the process.

Third step: place the petals

Place the petals or flowers face down on the fat surface. Leave the petals on the oil for 24 hours so they can release their scent. You can cover it with a clean cloth or parchment paper.

Fourth step: replace the petals

Remove the spent petals and replace them with freshly picked flowers. This method is time-consuming but rewarding. I picked them by hand, but you can also use tweezers.

Fifth step: Repeat this for several days

Repeat this process until the fat is saturated with the scent of the flour. This may take several rounds, depending on the desired intensity. Ideally, you will get the desired scent if you continue for a few weeks.

Hot enfleurage in perfumery

To make hot enfleurage, gently heat a fat until it melts. Immerse fresh petals in the melted fat and maintain a low, steady heat to help the petals release their essential oils. After a few hours, strain out the used petals and replace them with new ones. Repeat this process until the fat is richly infused with the scent.

Finally, let the fragrant fat cool and solidify, and discover how to use it below!

How to make scented fat using hot and cold enfleurage

Use it as perfume

Apply the scented fat directly to your skin as a solid perfume. You can also melt it and gently mix it with a carrier oil (such as jojoba or almond oil) to create a liquid perfume. You can adjust the concentration to your preference for a lighter or stronger scent.

Body butter

Use it as a fragrant body butter.

Lip balm

Mix the fragrant fat with beeswax and coconut oil to make a homemade lip balm. This will nourish your lips and leave a subtle floral scent.

Making soap

Use the scented fat in homemade soap recipes. The fat adds a natural scent to the soap, making it a soothing and aromatic addition to your bath routine.

Candles

Mix the scented fat with wax to make beautiful scented candles.

Create an Absolute

To make a more concentrated perfume extract, wash the fragrant fat with ethyl alcohol. The alcohol will absorb the odor molecules from the fat. After separating the alcohol from the fat, you allow it to evaporate, leaving a highly concentrated absolute that can be used as a perfume.